Running in Turkey

It's been a couple of weeks since I left NYC and of course I've been running almost every day. I mean, I am training for a marathon.  This is one part of the adventure. Run everywhere I go and prepare for the Chiang Mai Marathon on December 20th. Plus that is what I do. I run. And it's such a great way to explore. I get to see so many neighborhoods I wouldn't otherwise see. Especially on those 15 and 17-milers. 

And since this is my 10th marathon, I did want to make it pretty good. Since Thailand has been on my list of places to visit for such a long time, it seemed like a good choice. People have also been recommending the city as well, so that's even better. And it's the 10th anniversary of this race. Even more fitting. 

So how has running in Turkey been you may be wondering. Well besides the obvious challenge of finding routes, tracks, and people to run with, it's the same. The one good thing about running, is you can truly do it anywhere. 

So far I've run in every city I've visited in Turkey. And since I'm in my last city before I head to Israel, now is a good time to comment on my running experience. 

Istanbul

I got a few solid runs in and a 15-miler shortly after I arrived. Fortunately since it's a city, there were some recommendations on where to run. I got to see more of the city, outside of the touristy parts. However, even with the recommendations, there weren't that many people out there running. I think I saw a total of 15 people in the 3 runs I did. And only like 3 females. I also got the sense that I was getting a lot of looks from people. I tried not to focus on that as I don't want to call additional attention to myself. I'm not sure if it was me, or the traffic, but I felt like I also got a lot of honks. Again, I pretended that it wasn't for me, as I don't want to be cursing at them for being inappropriate. Plus since I can't understand Turkish, I have no idea what they are saying. Except with the occasional, "go go".

View of the Bosphorous Strait and downtown Istanbul.

Bodrum

Running in Bodrum was a bit more pleasant. Not as much attention. But I could have done with less hills. Since I'm training, I want to get in as many tempo and speed workouts as possible. Which will continue to be a challenge. When running isn't a part of the lifestyle, it's nearly impossible to find a running track nearby. And no easy place to do tempos. I was definitely spoiled with Central Park being in my back yard and having tracks at my disposal. You have to be a bit creative, like doing laps on a basketball court, when you want to get speedwork in. I do have to say my 17 miles around the Bodrum Peninsula was quite enjoyable, even with all the hills. I still got a lot of honks and didn't see another runner during the entire time, but the views were spectacular. 

One of the many bays of Bodrum.

Pamukkale

I only got one run in Pamukkale, but it was a good one. Again, no other runners (and when I told the owner of the hotel I was staying in what I was doing, he was confused), and more honks. But I did get to see more of the Turkish landscape. 

Cotton Castle.

Goreme

Goreme is my last stop before heading to Israel. I have a couple of more runs here, but the one from this morning was quite lovely. I took an overnight bus in and my room wasn't quite ready. So I figured, let's go explore. Hilly of course. Shockingly. But man the rock formations are amazing. And I got to run on some trails, which were quite nice. I would like to get some sort of tempo run in tomorrow, but maybe I'll do some sort of hill workout instead. Take advantage of what you have, right?

Cappadocia.

I'm glad I've been able to run in each place so far, and it's definitely interesting to see the reactions. This is only the first country I've visited so far, so I imagine each place will be a bit different. And if you are reading this and have any running recommendations for Israel or beyond, please share. 

Istanbul

I'm on Day 5 of my adventure. I'm counting the first day as it was the day I left. But it was only a travel day. I guess I had some champagne at JFK, which could be seen as exciting. I mean for me it was. Bubbly to kick start off the trip for $14? Yes please. After a quick layover in Russia, I eventually made it to my first destination on Day 2. 

In the last 72+ hours I've been able to cover a lot of Istanbul. I can't help feeling like a tourist. Well I guess I am. But there seems to be a lot of them, so I don't stand out. Too much. And going from NYC to another city actually bodes well for me as that is where I fit in most. Hustlers can't get anything on me. It's a nice transition to a new country, and I can acclimate myself a bit before heading to more remote areas. 

So what have I done so far you may be wondering. I explored the neighborhood I'm staying in (Beyoglu) and went up the Galata Tower my first day (all after taking a much needed shower of course). The tower had some pretty good views of the city, which I caught right at sunset.

View from Galata Tower, looking at Suleymaniye Mosque.

On Day 3, I wandered around the other side of the city and visited both the Suleymaniye and Sultan Ahmed Camii (Mosque). Both were pretty cool and a little bit different. Of course it's quite warm here (still summer-like and not too different from NYC except way less humidity), and I was wearing shorts. I did have a scarf with me to cover my head and shoulders, but they provided a skirt for me to wear. A long skirt did not make the cut when I packed. Actually I guess I have to own one first before it could make any sort of cut. 

Outside Suleymaniye Mosque.

Inside the Sultan Ahmed Mosque.

Yesterday was a bit of a lazier day. I guess after a 15-miler, I deserved it. I took a nap. Longer than I anticipated. Then decided it was a bit too late to do anything else but get some beer. So that is what I did. I found myself at a nearby "urban garden" bar. One of the things I love about this city, are all the hidden side streets. You can turn down any one of them and find a restaurant or bar. So that's what I did. I'm on a mission to try all the different Efes beers that Turkey has to offer. I've tried 3 of them so far: the pilsner, the dark one, and the malt one. I like the dark one the best as of now. I then decided to do a Turkish bath. But I'm going to come back to you on that one. I'd like to do one more before leaving Turkey and will provide a review then. 

Today was more of a touristy day. After my very humid run (did I mention it's not humid here?), I made my way to Gulhane Park. This was a suprise find. I didn't realize it was there and went through the gates and was pleasantly surprised to find all this greenery. As much as I love the side streets, I wish there was more green space here. I didn't realized I missed it until I came across this park. I know I spent most of my time walking around the urban jungle known as NYC, but I did get my almost daily dose of Central Park. Which does make a difference. 

Gulhane Park.

After that I checked out the Basilica Cistern and the Hagia Sophia. Both pretty cool spots if you get a chance to get to Istanbul. 

Basilica Cistern.

Hagia Sophia.

That's it for now. I'm going to pay my bill at this lovely outdoor bar and head to bed.