Èpernay

From Strasbourg to Reims I took a car share, and then a train to Èpernay, the champagne capital of the world. I was still in shock from the election results and was a little out of it. I had to try hard to not cry at various points. I talked a little bit about the election with my fellow carpoolers, but it was more humorous than sad to them. There was a news update at the rest stop, but since it was in French, I didn't quite get their side of it. But seeing the President-elect's face was enough to put a look of distaste on my face, and a feeling of being sick in my stomach.

On the train from Reims to Èpernay, there was some excitement to distract me though. I'm pretty sure some kid got busted with drugs. The police and their dogs went through the train sniffing away, and stopped a few rows from me. Turns out the teenager had something on him, since it warranted more police officers. After a few stops, they got off the train. I presume that is where the kid lived, and they got off to deal with him. 

After a short ride, I arrived in Èpernay, where my Airbnb host picked me from the train station. Since it was raining, I was grateful for the ride. She gave me a quick tour of town, which included L'Avenue de Champagne. I was excited to try some champagne in the coming days. We arrived at her home and she got me settled in her daughter's room, who lives in Paris. We had some tea, she made me an appointment at Möet & Chandon for the next morning, and I got some groceries for the next few days.

Avenue de Champagne.

My host, Marie Helene, invited me to go dancing with her that evening. I was feeling pretty down and wanted to drink champagne to drown my sorrows, but I decided to tag along. I figured it could make me feel a bit a little bit better. I don't know if it really helped, but it got me out at the very least. We drove back towards Reims and made our way to a bowling alley, where I learned that we were at a salsa class. I didn't realize it was a class. I don't know any salsa. I can barely understand French. And there was an odd person out. But I went along with it. I probably  made a complete fool of myself and probably was concentrating too hard, but I went out and tried. The teachers and all my partners were all very patient with me. Of course when it was apparent I was American, the election came up. But fortunately I wasn't paired off for too long, so all conversations were kept short. I danced a little, and I think I felt a little better after. I was getting tired though. Eventually it was time to get some sleep. I needed some rest for the champagne houses the next day.

Salsa lesson.

The next morning I headed out for a run to make myself feel better. I was doing everything I could to get past the election results. You would think the trifecta of traveling, running, and drinking would cure me of my woes. It did not, but the views of the vineyards did help a little. They were very beautiful, and I wish I had time to run longer.  

Running in the vineyards.

Soon I was off to the next step in feeling better. I walked to Möet & Chandon for my appointment. At first they couldn't find my name, but it was probably put in incorrectly. Even if they couldn't find it, I was going to get a tour. So that was good. Since it was an English tour, there was only 2 of us at the beginning. Once we found out we were both from the USA, we asked each other how we were feeling. And it was mutual. As we got a tour of the champagne house, we got to vent to each other. Neither one of us really had anyone to talk to about the results. Until now. 

Just stay calm.

Dom Perignon.

After watching an intro video, a group of friends joined us. Our group got a bit larger, but the two of us stuck together. We headed down to the cellar to learn the process of making champagne. I hadn't realized (and I feel like I should've know this, but didn't) that champagne is made from pinot noir grapes, a red grape. Pinot meunier and chardonnay are also used to make champagne. To make it sparkling wine instead of regular wine, a secondary fermentation needs to take place. And voilà, bubbles are made. 

The Cellar.

Bottles biding their time.

After the tour concluded, and after I upgraded my ticket, we enjoyed our champagne. I had a glass of  the Imperial and Rose Imperial. Both were quite tasty. I'm definitely a fan of champagne. So it was great to taste the real stuff. 

Time to drink.

After our tour, my new friend, Lauren, and I grabbed some lunch, and more champagne of course. Champagne is definitely cheaper in Champagne. My new friend was headed out of town, so I was back on my own later that afternoon. She made some recommendations of other places to visit, and I just spent the rest of the day hopping around to various champagne houses.

First up was Champagne Janisson Baradon. The woman who worked there was very friendly and offered me a ton of different tastes from their vineyard. She gave me a discount, which was also very nice. 

So much champagne.

Up next was a spot down the avenue a little ways, Champagne A. Bergere. I just relaxed, tried a few different champagnes, and talked to a few different customers. There was one who supported the election outcome. He wasn't even American. That conversation was short. However I was able to have a reasonable conversation with a couple from Sweden. 

After a few different tastes, I headed to the final stop on my champagne tour, Lafine Bulle. I was able to pick and choose a variety of tastes from the region. The woman working there was nice, even though some people were hassling her. I did meet an American couple. They were pretty nice, but we didn't get into the election conversation. A part of me wondered if they were happy with the outcome. But who knows. I wasn't ready to speak to anyone who supported the results, so I treaded lightly. 

Last stop on my champagne tour.

After I finished my tastes, I grabbed a bottle of champagne to go and headed back to my Airbnb to eat, do laundry, and drink my new purchase. After all the bubbly and lack of sleep, I was ready to pass out. But first I had to cry a little while I watched Hillary Clinton's thank you speech. I intended to get as much as sleep as I could that night since I hadn't slept much in the previous few days.

The next morning, before heading into town to catch my train, I took a short walk up the hill to get my last view of the French vineyards. I grabbed my bags and ran a few errands in town before catching my train. Except it was a French holiday. The train I planned on was on a holiday schedule and wasn't running. Well I turned grapes into champagne, and had a glass. I did have to run around to find wifi in order to get in contact with my car share, but fortunately he was understanding and would wait for me in Reims.

Goodbye France.

So I enjoyed my last glass of champagne in Champagne before heading off to Luxembourg.