Udaipur

I'm definitely ending India on a better note. I had decided to go to the city of Udaipur and I'm so glad I did. It's a cute town on the shores of Lake Pichola. A James Bond film and The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel were filmed here. There are rooftops all over the place with wonderful views. The people are nice and not as bothersome as in Delhi and Jaipur. The food has been pretty good and I got some solid runs in. Overall, wonderful, and I could have stayed there for weeks.  

Rooftop view.

I arrived super early after my awesome night bus experience. A few of us decided to walk from the bus drop off. A perfect example of rickshaw trying to rip us off, was them offering an exorbitant amount of money to take us the 6 kilometers to our hotels, when in fact it was little over a mile. Totally walkable. And we made it with no troubles. I had to wait a bit for my room to be ready, but since I was very early, I was patient, even though I really wanted a shower. I needed to work with my friend on getting my replacement phone set up and activated, so that was my actual priority. Which I will get on Saturday when I meet her here in Vietnam. I'm excited to see her, and to get a working phone. It'll be nice to have a handheld device again, instead of pulling out my tablet when I need to refer to my location via GPS. I try not to pull out too often as I don't need any extra attention outside of my white skin. 

I met so many people at the hostel I was staying at from all over, including the US. I haven't come across too many other American travelers. A lot of Australians and Europeans, so it's nice to chat with fellow Americans every once in a while. Most everyone was in a similar sort of mood of hanging out and relaxing. There were a ton of cafes and rooftop restaurants that served this purpose very well. I walked around a bit to explore, but primarily tried to catch up on things and took it all in. The owners of the hostel were very friendly and I definitely recommend their place to anyone visiting Udaipur (Bunkyard Hostel). It's fairly new and they have some improvements to go, but definitely worth it. A welcoming place to meet like-minded travelers. 

Drinking with new friends.

I got a few runs in, which was great since India isn't seeing too many miles. I did an easier run one day and actually got a tempo in the following day. I haven't done a tempo or speed workout recently. We'll see how this bodes for the marathon that's in less than 5 weeks. Since I haven't been doing any tempos, let alone any longer tempos, I decided to do mile repeats. I feel like I should try to do more, but why push it at this point. I managed to get progressively faster for each mile. Which I was pleased about. I was also pleased since I saw another female runner and a few others walking for exercise. That makes me happy. 

Post-run stretch on the rooftop.

One night a group of us went to check out the nearby puppet show. It wasn't only puppets though. Actually, only about 10 minutes. There was some traditional dancing, a story acted out and some balancing acts. Possibly a bit more targeted to kids, but it was entertaining nonetheless. The following day, I actually got my own private show while I was getting some printouts for my Vietnam visa. The daughter of the woman who owned the shop (and gave me a henna tattoo), wanted to show me what she has been practicing in dance class. She was pretty good. I would have loved to have seen her practice some more and maybe learn a few moves, but I had to make my way to the train station for my overnight train back to Delhi. Once you get past all the people trying to sell you things, you can meet some genuinely nice people and have some good experiences with the locals. It's just hard to get to that sometimes. 

Dancing with fire.

The sleeper train was an interesting ride. So I didn't realize there were different classes for the sleeper train, so I just paid for the regular class. Which isn't super nice but doable. I was prepared though as I got the lowdown from some fellow travelers. I made sure I had locks ready to attach my bag to my seat, shoelaces to tie them to myself, a blanket to sleep with, and my scarf in combination with my backpack to use as a pillow. I did wake up several times, especially when my neighbors got off (who I was got to know before bedtime) and some young kids got on. I wanted to be sure no one was stealing my stuff, so was keeping somewhat of an eye on them. No one did. I tell myself that it's not the end of the world if someone takes my bag, but it would definitely be a huge hassle to deal with replacing it. It's always better to be safe than sorry. And seeing the Indian family lock their stuff up is reassuring. It's not just paranoid foreigners who are worried. 

Sleeper train neighbors.

So I had one full day in Delhi to finalize my trip. And I didn't do too much. But the city did redeem itself just a bit in my eyes. I saw a few other parts of the city, including the metro, and can see how people live there. I still couldn't do it. But if I had grown up in India, that is probably where I would have ended up. Riding the metro was actually nice and if there's one sort of transport that I know, it's a subway system. There were a few local neighborhoods that I walked through with people doing there daily routine. And when I checked out Central Park, people just were sitting around, relaxing in the sun. No one was bothering me and left me to relax as well. 

Before I heading to the airport, I walked around the Main Bazaar again, got a few Kingfishers in Connaught Place, and ate some Indian food and dessert. I wasn't bothered too much by rickshaw drivers, but there was one that stood out. I was walking over the bridge to the metro, and this guy kept yelling Madame at me. I turned and laughed at him since he expected me to hurdle a fence to get onto the road and ride his rickshaw. What a joke. He continued to bother me as I walked along. He finally left me alone, but jeez. 

Delhi's Central Park.

I made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare.Good thing as I didn't want to repeat what happened in Sri Lanka. Oh but wait. I make my way to the departure area and get stopped at the door to show them my ticket. Which I don't have yet. I did check-in online, but never received my ticket in my email. And there's no wifi at the airport, so couldn't even check to see if it had come in later on. The security guy then has to go to Thai Airlines to get me sorted out. I was finally allowed into the departure terminal and formally got my ticket and checked my bag. I think they need to do a better job of communicating this process. Especially as I wasn't the only one dealing with this. 

I spent the last of my rupees and settled into sleep on the plane. Vietnam is next. 

Jaipur

I spent a few days in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, about 4 1/2 hours from Delhi. When deciding where to go in India, I really based it on recommendations from people I've met and geography. I knew I wasn't going to be giving the amount of time to India that it deserves and it will be somewhat of a whirlwind. Right now, I'm ok with it, but that may not leave me with the most positive lasting impression. But I have one more town to hit up before I head out.

I ended up sitting next to a nice couple from England and France on the train ride to from Delhi to Jaipur. My plan to nap or catch up on things didn't end up happening. But I did get to have a good conversation the entire ride out. And I got to play the 50-state game with the English guy. As an American, I had to beat him, but I have to say he did a pretty good job. I helped him out a bit. I got up to 49 and for the life of me couldn't remember Wisconsin. I better get there at some point so I don't forget it. Anyway, the train ride went by relatively quickly and we arrived in Jaipur. I settled in, showered (didn't go for a run like I thought about), and went in search for food. I eventually got to the Old Green Tandoori Dhaba about a mile away. For some reason, I though Jaipur was a lot smaller than it really is. At this point, I was pretty hungry and settled in. Another woman actually came in at this point and I ended up joining her. She's retired and has been traveling around India for a while. This is her 3rd trip here actually. She was helping me out to figure out what I should do next. She seemed to have a really interesting life and hasn't been back to the UK in a long time now, and it'll still be a while before she does. I think going on a couple of years. I think about doing that every once in a while and wonder if I can last that long. We'll see. A lot of people asked if I would be lonely before I headed out on this trip and I knew I wasn't going to be. I've met so many people and have had good conversations with people from all over the world. 

After getting my fill, I made my way to the Old City, also called the Pink City. Pretty much pink walls surround the area, which is made up of many bazaars. So many bazaars. One thing that is getting exhausting is the attention from all the rickshaw drivers and the people selling you things. It doesn't make it enjoyable to me. I wouldn't mind lingering a while to window shop, but it's hard since I would have to have the same conversation over and over. I do wish they could let tourists peruse in peace, we may even buy things. I actually ended up buying a few things later on, but I do have to say part of it was because I wasn't being constantly hassled. I'm not sure if I was tricked or not, but this guy showed me around a few places in the Old City, including a temple and a rooftop view of the City Palace down the street and Amber Fort up on a hill on the outside of town. He then took me to a few shops that were away from the Old City. I'm pretty sure he made some sort of commission off of what I ended up purchasing, but oh well. I was able to negotiate down a bit, so I hope I didn't overspend. If anything, I have some nice souvenirs of India. And I'm not saying what they are as they also may be Christmas presents. 

The Pink City.

Later that evening, I met a nice couple from Australia and we hit up a restaurant in the neighborhood for dinner. Well it was definitely a super nice place. We sat outside in the back area under some nice lights. The menu was pretty pricey, but we decided to get a few things to share as we all had a late lunch. And we got a beer tower to share. I didn't think I would be having one of those on this trip. But we did. We of course got the local Kingfisher Lager. I have to say I wasn't really feeling it when we left though. So I wonder how much alcohol content there was. The couple were really nice and we had a nice time eating some good food, drinking the beers, and listening to the continued Diwali celebrations happening all around us. 

Dinner with a beer tower.

The next morning I finally went for my first run in India. I really haven't had made the effort to run, nor have I had the time. It's been a bit overwhelming to attempt to. With all the people and traffic, it makes me a bit nervous to get out there. I don't want to have to deal with the constant attention and continued dodging of moving vehicles, people, and animals. But I got up pretty early and went for it. And I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't get as much attention as I was expecting. Which was a relief. I also found that some of the rotaries they have around the city have dirt tracks in the middle of them. Others were walking and exercising, so I took advantage and would do a few laps every once in a while. This week had a lack of miles, but I was able to get a solid 6-miler in, which I was pleased about. It was a good warm-up for my 13-miler on Saturday. I again got up early to kick it off and made my way to the Old City. I figured most of the shops would be closed for a while, so it would be safe to get some miles in there, along with public gardens nearby. It was a good run. Not a lot of attention, although there was some guy that laid on the horn until I realized it was to get my attention. Seriously. How obnoxious. Definitely got a few 'hello's, a 'run faster', and some guy attempting to run next to me. Like he would be able to keep up. The weather was a big improvement from last week's long run in Sri Lanka. It was a bit cooler, but dry. Much better running weather.

Running the dirt track.

And good thing I'm getting some miles in with all the food and sweets I'm consuming. I've made a few trips to the bakery, including Laxmi Misthan Bhandar. In all seriousness, I don't need to worry about it. But man the sweets have been good. And the lassis. Which I'm still not entirely sure what they are made of, but are along the lines of a milkshake. They also have milkshakes, so there must be some sort of difference. All the rice has been good carbo-loading for sure.

More Indian treats.

I visited the City Palace in the Old City, where I saw old weapons, royal garments, apparently the largest silver objects in the world (silver vessels), and one courtyard that had 4 gates to represent the 4 seasons. My favorite was the peacock gate, which happens to be autumn, my favorite season. I did have to look up the significance of the peacock as I have noticed them elsewhere. It's the national bird of India. Which I think is a nice choice and happy to see them depicted in various places. 

Autumn gate of the City Palace.

Before I headed out of town on the night bus, I had a few Kingfishers with my new friends at the hotel, and then dinner at a local place. I was hoping the beer would put me right to sleep on the night bus. But no such luck. After fearing that I was getting tricked on another bus, I found where I needed to be, and settled in my bed for the night. Of course it was another sleepless night involving bumpy roads and a roadside squat at 4am. Add to the list of things that happen in India. 

Overnight bus ride.

Delhi

I made it to India. And so far, it has met my expectations. Loud, dirty, crazy traffic, and people everywhere. I spent my first hour getting from the airport to my hotel listening to the nonstop horns. I thought elsewhere was bad, but this takes the cake. Goodness. You must learn to block it out. I think I did to some degree later in the day.

I checked into my hotel and got fed a delicious and filling 2nd breakfast (first was on the plane). I ate so much, that I wasn't hungry for hours. After getting rid of my sweaty travel smell, it was time to explore. I was staying near one of the train stations out of convenience, but not too far from the Main Bazaar. The first thing I attempted was to go to the International Tourist Bureau to book some train tickets, but the wait was taking too long, so I gave my spot away and planned to come back later in the day. So towards the bazaars I went. I pretty much wandered around, making my way in the general direction of the Red Fort. I'm really surprised there aren't more accidents with the number of rickshaws, tuk tuks, scooters, animals, and pedestrians all over the tiny streets (if that's what you want to call them). People everywhere. I mean everywhere. It's no joke that almost 17 million people live here. And it's no joke that you can almost buy anything on the streets. Besides the normal food and clothing, there were large appliances, car parts, towels, flowers, shoes, and anything else you can think of.

One of the many bazaars.

I didn't purchase any items, but did treat myself to a jaleblis, deep-fried dough with syrup. And it was pretty tasty. I've been warned about not eating any street food and certain items throughout India. This place was recommended, so I decided to trust it, like with most places I end up eating at. Since I arrived in Sri Lanka, every time my stomach is a little off, I get nervous that I ate or drank something bad. But then I dismiss it as I can't spend my time worrying about that. And I'd like to think my stomach is strong enough to deal with any minor issues. So far, so good. 

Jaleblis.

I spent some time walking around the Red Fort and exploring the various buildings it consists of. I took in the red sandstone columns of Diwan-i-Am, the white marble of Diwan-i-Khas, and the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque), where the British removed and sold the copper off the domes.

The Red Fort.

There were a few people out and about enjoying the site and relaxing. I keep forgetting that I stand out here, not that it's hard with all the looks, smiles, and hellos. I've been asked a few times in my travels for photos and do oblige for the most part. In the Red Fort, I was asked 3 times. The first time I was a bit weary as it was a group of guys at first. I did agree, but then a few others joined, including women and children. So I figured it was ok. And of course I asked for a photo in return. A few minutes later, one of the group wanted a photo alone. I hope he doesn't run off and tell people I'm his girlfriend. But I'll never know. The last photo was with a young girl dressed up in a very pretty blue saree. So many photo albums I'm going to appear in.

Group shot.

After securing my train tickets, I went to look for dinner on the Main Bazaar. I ended up at Madan Cafe, another Lonely Planet recommendation, where I had some veggie biryana and people watched. The food was yummy and the people were nice. They actually had me worried the the Taj Mahal was closed the following day due to Diwali, but they checked into it for me and reassured me that I was ok. After chatting with a guy from Saudi Arabia, I headed back to eat the cookies my hotel left for me and get some sleep.

Dinner on the Main Bazaar.

I feel like I should be getting so much sleep on this trip, but there are periods where I definitely do not. The good thing is that I don't typically feel tired. Probably excitement of seeing such cool places. One of which was the Taj Mahal. I made my way to the train station before dawn to make my way to Agra. I chatted with a nice Indian women around my age on the ride. She was headed home to celebrate Diwali. We found some commonality as she works for a company that designs booths for exhibits, something that I am familiar with. After an autorickshaw ride to the south gate of the Taj, and some tea, a lassi, and food at a nearby rooftop hotel, I queued up for the spectacular Taj Mahal.

Lunch with a view.

I pretty much spent the afternoon wandering around the grounds of the Taj Mahal. And it was pretty cool. Very impressive and large. It was built in memorial for Shah Jahan's 3rd wife, Mumtaz Hahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child. And I thought I had a big family. I took in all the different views leading up to the Taj Mahal and all around it. 

Up close.

Just like at the Red Fort, I met lots of people who wanted photos with me. A range of people for sure, but this family was very charming. They lived in California for a while, and the girl has a pretty decent American accent. They are back in India, but the boy is apparently counting down the days he can go back to the US, and I think NYC specifically. I say apparently as he was very shy and actually didn't speak to me. But his family filled me in of course since they were all very chatty.

Fellow visitors to the Taj.

After taking it all in, I waited for the sun to come down. Due to the smog, it wasn't as spectacular as I was hoping. But the lighting was different and the Taj Mahal looked pretty cool against the white backdrop. 

As the sun went down. 

After I was done looking at the building, I then made my way to Sadar Bazaar area of Agra to take in the Diwali scene before my train ride. A lot of people were out and about participating in the festivities. Lights and candles were all around and there was even a carnival set up for the kids. The area definitely had a fair-like vibe to it. 

Agra Diwali celebration.

I made sure to get some dinner and Diwali sweets while I waited for my train. Eventually I made my way to the train station once I was done exploring. I do wish the train was a bit earlier. And of course it ended up being late. I just have to take advantage of the down time and read or get myself organized as much as I can without wifi. I finally made it back to my hotel in Delhi to pack up my stuff as I had another early train to Jaipur. After finishing off my sweets off course. 

Diwali sweets.