Lares Trek

It was time to start our long-anticipated trek. Ambreleah, Alysia, Sally, Audrey, Kim, Francelli, Eddie, and I loaded up at 6am to join our tour guides Yoel and Nilton. We had over an hour to our next stop, where I was hoping to nap a bit. But I can't nap on demand. We arrived in the small village of Calca to stock up on food. The chef and assistants got a bunch of food to feed us over the next few days. We also grabbed a few things to give to a family that we were meeting in a couple of days.

Market stop. 

As it got lighter out, and we saw more, we couldn't help but stare out the window. All I wanted to do was stop and take photos. And finally I got my wish. We got a group llama shot looking over the misty mountains.

The group for the next few days.

We eventually made our way to Lares, where there were some lovely hot springs we were going to enjoy after breakfast. We have been up for hours, so I was anxious to eat. We got delicious fresh fruit and eggs, along with coco tea to help avoid any altitude sickness. Good thing there's no drug test in my near future.

Very fresh breakfast.

After getting our fill, we jumped into the hot springs. The pools were varying temperatures of hot, so it was fun to try out each one. You can't stay in them for too long, but was cool to try each one. There were a few other locals there, but it felt like we had the place to ourselves. I think a visit back after the trek would have been amazing to soak our potentially sore and tired bodies.

Lares Hot Springs.

After changing and drying off, we drove a bit more and finally arrived to the trail head, where we were starting the actual trek. We were at 3300 meters (10,827 feet). And we were off.

The beginning of our trek.

We went up hills and down them. We walked alongside rivers.

Misty mountains and rumbling creeks.

And saw sheep.

Sheep just roaming around.

We also fit in another delicious, and filling meal in the village of Kiswarani. If that is what you want to call it. It's not even on the map. Luckily for us it rained during our lunch. Not before or after. Soon we were back on our way. Our horses with the supplies eventually passed us in order to set up camp before we arrived.

Horses getting ahead of us.

Shortly before we arrived at our campsite, we saw some cool waterfalls. They were no Iguazu, but still beautiful in their own way. Especially with all that mist. 

Kiswarani Waterfalls.

As we were making our way up and over the falls, a couple of cute girls appeared. We took the obligatory photo and gave them some soles. Since they were Quechua, they didn't know much Spanish, let alone any English.  So in the best way I know how to communicate, was to attempt to race them up past the waterfalls. I was trying to get them to open up a bit since they were pretty shy. But once we started 'running', they had smiles on their faces. They are clearly way better at running up mountains than me. But I think I put on a decent show, and tired them out. And tired me out. 

Running up mountains.

Soon we arrived at our campsite for the evening. According to the tour company we were at 3850 meters (12,631 feet) and hiked 10 kilometers (6.2 miles). According to my Fitbit, we hiked 7.55 miles and went up 179 flights of stairs. My Fitbit usually underestimates the actual mileage, and of course includes all the walking around before the actual trek started, and the walking around the campsite in the evening. 

Campsite for the evening.

We got settled in, and had more coco tea to warm up. After a little bit of a rest, we had our first dinner camping. Each time they brought out a meal, I was impressed. This evening, they had a structure that I'm sure helped, but still, were were camping. The food did not disappoint.

Dinner.

We tried to get some sleep that night. I slept on and off since not only was I not in a bed and in a tent, but I had to pee a couple of times (all that coco tea), and it rained during the night. I couldn't complain though. I wanted the rain to get out of it's system while we were not hiking. And I can't really expect a great night sleeping, even if we did get mats to sleep on.

The crew woke us up the following morning at 5:30am (surprisingly I was already awake) with some coco tea. We cleaned ourselves up as best as we could and ate breakfast. Before hitting the trail, we did formal introductions with our entire Alpaca Expeditions crew, which included our chef, Mario, his assistants, and the porters. I remember some names, but not all. I should have written them down. 

The Green Machine crew.

We got going and had some spectacular views of the lake we slept near. Luckily no one fell in during the night. There was a sharp drop off near the tents and our guides told us about previous sleep walkers. Also luckily, the rain stopped. 

Reflections.

The views kept getting more amazing as we walked along. We saw more llamas, including a black one, which is pretty special. I forget why, but it is. Just go with it. 

Llama.

The second day would be the toughest, so it was recommended to take very short breaks as we climbed in elevation. We would have allotted breaks, but my short breaks were easy to take as I couldn't stop taking photos, including the other sisters on our trip. 

The Bello Sisters.

After a few hours, we arrived at the summit of Condor Pass, at 4680 meters (15,354 feet). Which included a misty view of Mount Pitusiray and a glacier in the distance. 

Made it to Condor Pass.

It definitely wasn't easy, but someone did need to take the emergency horse up part of the way. I won't name any names. Just put their photo. 

Opting for the emergency horse.

We had a warm beverage (coco tea again) and some snacks to recharge ourselves before making our descent. We headed down the mountain, which was a little trickier, but easier. We soon came to a river crossing. But fortunately, it was tiny. So just a few hops and we were on the other side. 

Crossing rivers.

We got a point where we took a bit of a longer break. We may or may not have taken a quick nap in the sun before continuing on our way. 

Quick nap. 

We weren't far from our campsite, so we arrived shortly thereafter, which was located in the village of Cancha Cancha. This village is the only village in the Lares Valley that does not have modern technology, including electricity and cars. After our lunch and a siesta, we got to visit with a family and understand some of the Incan traditions that they still practice.

Traditions that still stand.

The Quechua wake up and go to bed with the sun, in their stone and grass-thatched roof one-room houses. There's one bed for the entire family (that would've have been so crowded in my family), with guinea pigs under the bed that they raise to eat or sell. The kitchen was close by with a fire in between. It was a very smoky house. It was a nice welcome for heat since it was chilly outside, but hard to breathe. It's really interesting to see how they still live, even with such advances in technology. I think it's refreshing, but it would also be hard to do knowing what we know. It's a very simple life. 

After our introduction into the life of the locals, we filled up on yet another delicious meal. And had some sort of alcohol-infused dessert. I think it was peach or maybe pear. I had a headache and was tired, so can't remember properly. 

Dessert.

After dinner, we were all pretty tired, but before bed, we all gazed upward and were amazed with all the stars we could see. Our guide had an app on his phone to show us the different constellations. I think it may have been one of the starriest nights I've ever seen. Even when I was in the desert in Jordan. I'm curious about stars, but it's hard for me to see some of the constellations sometimes and there usually aren't that many out. But this was different. It was amazing. I wish I did know more at that moment. I have to get that app downloaded. Although there would be limited use of it in NYC.  

We finished our day with walking 14 kilometers (8.6 miles), a gain of 830 meters (2723 feet), and went to bed at 3750 meters (12,303 feet) according to the tour company. My Fitbit says we walked 10.6 miles and 151 flights of stairs. Another deserved night of rest. I'm not sure which is more correct, but will go with the higher number of course. 

The third day arrived, and with that the eve of Aunt Sally's 60th birthday. We had mentioned her birthday was on the 1st and it was a big one, but we wouldn't have the Green Machine with us anymore at that point. I mentioned that maybe an early surprise would be good. Not sure if that was actually going to happen, but after breakfast, we noticed there was some activity. They surprised Sally with a cake. It was so great. Sally was so surprised, and so thrilled. We sang Happy Birthday and then proceeded to have cake for breakfast. And it was good. I have no idea how they made a cake at our campsite, but it was one of the better cakes I've had. Sally may have gotten cake in the face shortly after this photo. A Peruvian tradition they say. 

Happy Birthday Aunt Sally. 

After the celebration, we continued making our way down the mountain. The scenery along the river continued to amaze. 

Down by the river. 

As we walked along, remnants of civilization started to appear. We came across a bunch of workers supplying electricity up the mountain. I'm curious what the impact will be like. I think it will help, but definitely change their way of life. And you'll see more tourists. We barely saw anyone on our trek. We were on the edge of the season, but I know the Inca Trail would have been crowded. I like having the place to ourselves.

Putting electricity in.

We came across a road, and then eventually to a larger town, Huaran, where we got the lowdown on the local brew, chicha. It can be fermented or non-fermented, and it's derived from maize. This was supposed to be alcoholic and since it was the end of our trek, I figured why not, let's have a glass. Looking back, I'm not sure if there was alcohol in it, but I at least tried it. 

Chicha.

Soon we arrived at our final stop on our trek, at 2700 meters (8858 feet). It had grown a lot warmer since we were down in the Sacred Valley. We ate a great lunch and said goodbye to everyone. Most of our crew are locals and were headed back to where they live. 

It was a pretty great trek and I think everyone was pretty happy with what they accomplished. I was a little nervous at the beginning, but mostly because of the unknown. It ended up being such a great experience and I would highly recommend the tour group we went with. 

We did it. 

We loaded up the bus that arrived during lunch and headed to our next stop, the Salineras salt mines in the town of Maras. There's a salt water spring that spills over the mountain and fills the different chambers that belong to the locals. They turn around and sell their various salt products. 

Sitting on the edge of the salt mines.

We hopped back on the bus and continued on our way to Ollantaytambo, where we had a bit of time to wander, and then eat dinner. It was a short visit, but long enough for Sally and I to decide to come back later on after Machu Picchu. 

Ollantaytambo.

After dinner and a pisco sour, we grabbed a quick tuktuk ride to the train station and a couple of hours later we arrived in Aquas Calientes. A shower was on the immediate agenda. Then attempting to get connected to the real world. Very slowly, and not always successful. Then bed. 

On the train to Aquas Calientes.

Officially, the last day of our trek was 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) and we reached 2000 meters (6562 feet) in elevation in Aquas Calientes. My Fitibit said we did 10.9 miles and 50 flights of stairs. I'm going with my Fitbit on this one again.

Cusco

I made it to Peru. After 3 flights, a stopover in a different country, and little sleep, I arrived in Cusco. I negotiated a taxi ride into the city and was finally seeing my sisters, aunt, and friends. This part of my trip was different from other parts. First, it's been on my list since the beginning. Second, there was a good amount of planning done. There was a group of 8 of us meeting up to do the Lares Trek and Machu Picchu. At first I thought it was just going to be my sisters, Ambreleah and Alysia, and myself. But then our Aunt Sally decided to come. And then our friend Audrey. And then three more people. I hadn't met them before Cusco, but by the end of the trip, we were all friends. It was a good group of people and enough to make our own tour. 

I arrived at the hostel and found that my aunt hadn't arrived yet. She was supposed to be there hours before me. There was a little mix up and apparently she was waiting for me at the airport. I was too excited to see everyone that I rushed out of there, having no idea she was still there. Fortunately she arrived shortly after. We were all together now and anxious to get food. 

We walked towards Plaza de Armas and immediately we were targeted. I know better due to all my traveling, but not so much everyone else. Whenever there is a puppy nearby, my sisters just gravitate towards it. Imagine a baby llama? It was pretty cute. So here we are paying for a photo with local Peruvian women, children, and animals. There would be more of this for sure.

Getting suckered.

We went in search for the Lonely Planet recommended restaurant and got so much food. Ceviche, palta, rice and pollo, and much more. We got a little bit of everything so we could try multiple dishes. Most of which I've forgotten the name of. And of course we got pisco sour. This was my first one in Peru. There is a debate with Chile and Peru on who takes credit for this tasty and refreshing drink. Unfortunately since I was in Chile too long ago at this point, I can't tell you which one was better. Although I think they were pretty similar. 

Peruvian pisco sour.

Later that evening, we checked in with our tour company to pay the balance, and ask any questions we had. We scheduled our full briefing for the following night, where we would get our duffle bags to pack and finalize any last minute details. 

So I had one full day in Cusco before starting our trek. And of course we decided to do a hike. They don't recommend eating certain foods, drinking alcohol, and doing any strenuous exercise beforehand. Well we listened to 2 out of the 3 recommendations. We are all in pretty good shape, so going on a short hike wasn't going to kill us. So off we went. 

However, once we started going up stairs, we definitely felt the altitude. We were at 3,399 meters (11,152 feet). And we started breathing heavy very quickly. Good thing for scenic stops for photo opportunities. 

Working for the view.

We eventually made it up all the stairs and some dirt trails to see Cristo Blanco up close. You would think we were in Rio. But we were not.

Cristo Blanco.

The view down below was pretty amazing and worth the hike up. 

Cusco.

After our hike, we headed back down to find food and rest. I mean, we were starting a 4-day hike the following day. Too bad we couldn't reward ourselves with a cervesa or pisco sour. Once we got to Machu Picchu we would though. 

Plaza de Armas.

Later on, we had our briefing, received our duffles, and had a low-key meal. Of course most of us were up all night getting ready, and the 5:30am pick-up came too quickly. But we were ready to get started. And even though I was a bit sleepy, I was pretty excited to get started. 

Packed and ready to go.

Back to Buenos Aires

Before Sandra and I left Argentina, we returned to Buenos Aires to see and do few things we didn't get a chance to do when we first arrived. We planned it that way since it's a large city, and we had to do some planning when we first arrived. 

After our flight got in, we headed to our airbnb spot. It wasn't as good as our place in Bariloche, but we got breakfast and met some locals. We walked around a bit, got on the subway, and went to see the Obelisco. The obelisk was pretty standard, but the large BA nearby was pretty cool.

Big BA.

Someone had mentioned that Casa de Rosada is lit up at night, so we decided to go check it out again. However, it was either a fluke or the lights were out because Obama was in town (and apparently inside the building). Yeah, he hadn't made it to Bariloche yet. There was still hope of seeing him. I thought it would be cool to see him in a different country. Although I've never seen him at home either. Only on TV.

Argentina and the US.

While we were walking around, we noticed the signs for the public holiday which was the following day, Día de la Memoria por la Verdad y la Justicia. It was the 40th anniversary of the coup d'état of 1976 that brought the National Reorganization Process to power. With Obama in town, there were definitely mixed feelings. Some people are still upset with the role of the US in the dictatorship back then. I wasn't alive, and am no expert on what happened, but I hope that everyone can begin to move on. The perception of the US globally is really complex and I do wish more people back home understood what it's like. I don't even fully understand it, but meeting people and learning about other cultures and politics, helps me begin to.

We spent the following morning walking around Palermo Soho, not far from where we were staying. I had to get my laundry before it closed for the holiday, so we couldn't go too far. Luckily, we were pleasantly surprised with what we came across. The neighborhood was super cute. There were murals everywhere, fun shops, and lots of restaurants. We sat down at a Mexican place, got some lunch and margaritas, and enjoyed the nice weather.

Palermo Soho.

After picking up my laundry, we went to explore the colorful neighborhood of La Boca, and especially Caminito, the pedestrian street where tango dancers perform. It was very touristy, but still fun looking at all the colorful buildings. And we got a little tango show. We spent a good amount of time exploring. Once we thought we had enough, we hopped back on the bus and headed to the San Telmo neighborhood. 

Surrounded by color.

San Telmo was another neighborhood famous with a tango connection, as well as it's colonial buildings. 

Colonial San Telmo.

We walked around a bit, and got a sneak peak of where we were watching tango the following night. 

Viejo Almacen.

The following morning, we decided to go see the Torre Monumental, a gift from Britain. It totally looks like it belongs in the UK, or at the very least in Boston. 

Torre Monumental.

After getting some hot chocolate, which consisted of melting a piece of chocolate in hot milk, we paid another visit to Cementerio de la Recoleta. We saw some things we saw before, but went to some unexplored areas. I'm glad we went again and again, I could have spent hours wandering. It's just so cool walking up and down the narrow alleys full of tombs. 

Back to Cementerio de la Recoleta.

Later on, it was time for tango. Sandra and I headed back to rest up before dressing up to watch tango at Viejo Almacen. We waited for a while for our pick-up, but finally made it to the show. We had no idea what time it started, so worried we would be late. But these drivers are experts. I guess since safety is a concern, a pick-up comes with every purchase of a ticket. Good for us since it was on the other side of town. And they dropped us off at the end of the night. 

Waiting for the show.

When we arrived, we were pleased to find out seats were not too far from the stage. There were still some poles in the way, but for the most part, it was a good spot. We got our glass of champagne to enjoy while we waited. 

Paid complimentary glass of bubbly.

The show was pretty cool. I'm definitely amazed with how they can dance so well. This is with most types of dances of course. I like to say I can dance, but not in the traditional sense. I can't follow choreography for the life of me. As much as I was impressed, I still found the performance forced at times. After talking with Sandra, who is more of an expert, she mentioned that since it's more of a show, and not an impromptu performance, this is why I felt like that. Which makes sense. I'm still glad I got to see some real-life tango.

Tango.

I spent the following morning doing one last run in Argentina. I wanted to go longer, but wasn't feeling up to it. However, I still managed to get in over 7 miles, so that was a positive. This was going to be my last run for at least a week. I was headed to high elevation in Peru. And I would be trekking for a few days. No runs for a while. 

Amazing running paths all over. 

Sandra and I spent our last day wandering the parks.

Ell rosedal. 

And getting lunch in the Palermo SoHo neighborhood.

Palermo Soho artwork.

We eventually headed to the airport and said farewell to Argentina. I had a long night of travel ahead of me, so of course I had to have one last glass of Argentinian red before leaving the country. I was excited to head to Peru to meet family and friends. I got to see and do a lot in Argentina, and I am looking forward to a future visit. 

One last glass of red.